This is my travel diary of my trip to Egypt. It contains in detail my memories of what I did and saw.

Monday October 26, 2015

Egypt: Day 5, Part 4 – Papyrus Trap & Road to Alexandria

We then headed to a “Papyrus Museum”, or a store that has been licensed in making real authentic papyrus (fake/cheaper ones are made with banana leaves). The store showed us how the papyrus is cut, left to age in the water, and then how to make it by alternating layers in different directions and pounding out all the water. She showed how it is waterproof, and how strong it is. She then showed us some of the more common designs from ancient Egypt and told us what stories they represented.

papyrus

Then we had time to walk around the store. There was a mix of ancient designs to more modern works. And they have the selling thing down pat. Every person was “adopted” or paired up by an eager seller. Without knowing what was happening, I accepted the “free” cold bottle of water as my new “friend” showed me around. I tried to look disinterested as I tried to do the math in my head on the prices. Some were cheapish (15 USD for a simple cat picture), while other more intricate (including bizarre glow in the dark, or huge massive framed works.) I figured I’d just get the cheap cat one so I could say I had real Egyptian papyrus (and because I had not followed my own advice. Never accept anything from anyone thats “free”, as it isn’t. Its a sign you are accepting the hospitality and plan to make a purchase. I was keenly aware that I wouldn’t be getting out of the store without buying anything now that I had taken their hospitality.)

As my new friend got a man behind the counter to write my name in hieroglyphics next to the cat “for free” I was also offered one of the more common medium sized designs for 45 USD. Now I had seen one of similar size that I actually liked which was for 80 USD. I turned down the design in front of me as my new friend kept trying to sell to me. I then coyly said, I’d only get a medium sized one if it was of X design number (They had given us paper to write down the numbers of the designs we liked.) and since it was of the same size as the one they were offering me now for 45 I wanted that price for it. After some negotiation we settled on the cat and the other papyrus for 60 USD, and then the power went out. It was at this moment I realized “Holy crap, I’m spending a lot of money on something I said I wasn’t going to buy in Egypt.” I hopefully turned to my new friend and asked if they could still process credit cards without power. He smiled and assured me they could, handed me my rolled up papyrus and whisked me to the payment area. While I like the papyrus I got, I cannot help but feel a little hustled. But I did plan on Egypt being my dream trip, and thus had a “dream trip budget” for many souvenirs and gifts. Although, I don’t think I’ll ever end up framing and displaying the papyrus.

After paying I managed to get out of the shop and back into the bus. I was pleased to see others had also bought some papyrus, with some people buying huge expensive ones. While Mikel translated for some of the street sellers I rested a bit. We then set off to have lunch. Mikel had recommended an Egyptian style BBQ place that served food family style.

giza_bread

As we entered, a local woman was making bread. Not having any change, I didn’t take that many photos of her. (You learn everything in Egypt has a price.) But as we walked away I saw Mikel tip her, wish I had taken more photos!

Photo by Elizabeth

Photo by Elizabeth

The woman started flipping fresh bread onto a backset on her head, and then made a really loud noise like “ALALALALALA” As we took photos.

Photo by Jane

Photo by Jane

Then it came down to sit and have lunch. We looked out on the grounds into what was almost an unofficial petting zoo. Goats and chickens wandered the grass, and monkeys in cages danced around the far side of the area.

Photo by Elizabeth

Photo by Elizabeth

But the real standout was the food. Grilled chicken and meat were presented on mini grills that smoked and kept the food warm. Delicious bread, falafels, and various veggies were passed around. It was so delicious and filling.

Photo by Elizabeth

Photo by Elizabeth

Photo by Magda.

Photo by Magda.

We sat and talked to our group members and had a great time. But then it was time to go back to our hotel to collect our bags before heading on the 4 hour journey to Alexandria. I sat on the inside of the bus for the first part. While we drove I napped, wrote in my journal, watched the scenery turn more deserty, and read The Martian by Andy Weir. About halfway we stopped for bathrooms. Wanting to hoard what little change I had, I wondered if I could pull my “Heres one coin” and dash plan, but the attendant wouldn’t let us pass until we had paid, but thankfully he did make change.

When I came out, everyone had bought ice cream. At first I didn’t want any, but after everyone saying it was delicious I got some as well and ate it quickly and greedily before getting back on the bus. This time I was near the window, and felt a bit trapped with all my crap, Elizabeth’s stuff, in the small space. (This would be the last time either Elizabeth or I would sit together in a 2 seat arrangement. I think we had an unspoken realization neither one of us wanted to be trapped near the window again, so for the rest of the entire time in Egypt, we beelined to the row of single seats.)

Usually I like looking out at the scenery but it honestly got kind of boring so I just alternated between sleeping and reading for the rest of the journey. It started getting darker and the scenery started to once again become more lush. I could see us passing lakes as we made our way to Alexandria. When we arrived to our hotel (a very nice Sheraton) after dark. While waiting for our bags to be removed out of the back of the van, the hotel served us hibiscus tea. Unfortunately, this version was very tart and sugary and most people couldn’t drink it. But we were all delighted to find out there was in-room wifi, so we eagerly all got our individual 1-day use codes.

Mikel asked if we wanted to all eat together, but the general consensus is that most people wanted to eat at one of the hotel’s restaurants. However, after having such bad food at the last hotel, I wanted something different. Elizabeth and I went outside and asked one of the guards where he would eat. He pointed us down the street saying there was tons of fancy fish restaurants. I think both Elizabeth and I made a face, as neither of us like fish. The guard then suggested a shawarma place a little further down the road.

So we set off, just the two of us. It was obvious tourists don’t frequently this area or at that time of night, as we did get some stares. We passed fancy and local eateries still searching for shawarma. I had never had it, but Elizabeth insisted it would be good. We came to a busy round about, and could smell delicious food from across the street. Armed with our knowledge of Egyptian traffic, we found some other locals crossing…and then ran across in between the cars.

We then sat down at a small table, just out there on the sidewalk. As we looked through the menu we realized a chicken shawarma and a soda (and table service) was less then 3 USD! So we both ordered the shawarma. It came to us rather quickly, still hot. And it was heaven. It was my first shawarma, and also the most delicious (as it quickly became my go-to dish in Egypt). We ate in an awe-like silence, taking in the locals eating on the street, the traffic going by, young children playing on the sidewalk. We congratulated ourselves for not only finding much cheaper and delicious food, but for having a more real experience in Egypt, and not being afraid to go out on our own. And then….it started raining. And of course we had both left our umbrellas in the room!

We flagged down the shop keeper, paid our bill, (as he handed us free falafels) and then ran between traffic and up the street back to the hotel. Not wanting any falafel, I gave mine to Elizabeth who said it was one of the tastiest she had ever had. We stayed up checking the internet. I found out that the day before we arrived in Alexandria there was massive rain-storms unusual for that time of year. And that the streets had flooded badly, and in one case a live water killed some people. People were calling for key government officials of Alexandria to step down for failing to maintain the storm drains.

Later in the middle of the night I woke up to Elizabeth feeling sick. I tried to help her, but at that point there wasn’t much I could do for her. I felt so bad for her, and remembered the time both I and my roommate were sick in Florez, Guatemala. But thankfully this time the hotel had AC. Elizabeth thought it was her migraine medication, while I secretly decided not to eat falafel in case that is what made her sick.