Breathtaking Crystal Maiden at Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) Cave

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Tips for it you go:

• During Belize’s rainy season between June through August, the cave may be flooded and impassable.
• It is about a 45 minute drive from San Ignacio. Then you’ll hike a bit through the forest, passing a river three times before reaching the entrance.
• The cave was rediscovered in 1989 and not opened to the public until 1998. Only licensed tours can go to the cave, and space is limited. This is because Belize is rightfully making sure this site is protected for years to come.
• You also cannot bring any cameras. A few years back a series of incidents occurred where tourists got too close to artifacts and dropped their camera breaking them. Then there were two separate incidents where tourists dropped their cameras onto the skulls and subsequently all cameras have been banned. Don’t even try to smuggle one in.
• Actually, you won’t be allowed to carry anything or have it in your pockets. Anything you do need will be carried in a waterproof bag by your guide.
• You will get wet, as a stream goes through the cave. The deepest part is at the beginning where you swim through the entrance, but the rest is at most ankle high.
• However, do not only wear a swimsuit. Our guides said that in the past women wearing bikini tops/bottoms have accidentally ripped them off when moving against jagged rocks. So make sure you are wearing shorts and a t-shirt over your swimsuit.
• There is a bit of a hike to get to the cave entrance. And while in the cave it is easy to stub your toes on stalagmites or other rocks, so it is recommended you wear closed toes shoes.
• BUT right before you get to where the artifacts are you will be required to take your shoes off. Again this is because of tourists not paying attention and stepping on artifacts. You must wear or bring a pair of socks to protect your feet as well as protect the rock formations from the oils in your feat.
• The cave is never unbearable, even if it’s extremely hot outside. I was a little chilled after the swim at the start of the cave, but beyond a little humidity, it was just on the edge of warm through the cave.
• It is about a 3 mile journey within the cave itself and takes a good chunk of the day to get there, hike through the cave and back. Most tours include lunch.
• Drink lots of water, and bring a change of clothes, & towel. You’ll leave them outside of the cave, so don’t bring any valuables.
• You’ll spend a little more than 3 hours in the cave, and need only a passing amount of fitness to be able to swim, twist through the passages, and hoist yourself up over some parts.
• Do not ever touch any of the rock formations. The oils in your hands will irreparably damage them. See the beautiful shiny and textured area? That will go away, instead leaving a smooth, but dull sheen forever.

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The cave entrance is in an hourglass like shape, and has a crystal clear pool. You will ease yourself into the water from the rocks and then will swim to the start of the path. The water is pretty deep at this point, and it’s hard to swim with your shoes on. But it is so beautiful! I even saw miniature fish swimming around us.

As you leave the outside light, you will turn on your head lamp. You’ll form a line and follow the guide as he leads you deeper into the cave. However, it’s a bit like a game of “Telephone” as the guide will lean back and tell the person behind him what to watch out for, and then they tell the person behind them and so on. But sometimes the message gets lost (in our case we had numerous non-native English speakers, who forgot or didn’t understand the need to pass along the message) so I recommend being in the front part of your line.

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The first 2 miles are through the river passage, with lots of fallen rocks and boulders. For example in some places there will be stalagmites that you could trip over, or stub your toes. At other times you may need to duck to avoid hitting your head. And at some points, you may need to go through a tight spot. I remember at one point, you had to stick your body through one opening in the rock, and there was a weird slot for where to fit your head. You had to angle your body through first, then move your head to the opposite direction pushing it through and down the opening, all while in water up to your shoulders. It wasn’t scary, just a frustrating human jigsaw puzzle that seems hard the first time you go through it. Again, there are multiple paths through this first part of the cave, and so you might not experience the same path I did.

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But as you get deeper into the cave things really start to open up. Huge grand caves lets you see beautiful rock formations, and colonies of bats. Our guide had us turn off all of our lights, so we could experience darkness that we’ve never seen before. It was eerie.

After a bit of a hike, you’ll then come to a cave in. I actually looked around as I couldn’t figure out where we’d go, it looked like it was impossible to pass. I asked the guide, he just pointed up. I saw no ladder, and so asked how. He explained that a fallen stalactite to our right had handholds and we’d rock climb (without wires) about 7 feet up it before “turning around, and then sort of jump our buts backwards onto the cliff ledge, and then crabwalk away from the edge.”

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I was shocked…this was supposed to be the “easy” tour. I had a little trouble since I’m so short, so the guide had to push me up the handholds. Then upon reaching the top (which barely had room for my two feet) I had to really hop backwards and just hope I wouldn’t fall in the darkness. But I made it, and crab walked up the ledge until I found a place to sit to await the others. Then we took off our shoes and entered the “Rocks of Pain” area. You could see where others had walked (due to the oil sheen on the rocks) and so some were smooth, while others were still painful. After you scale a boulder, you can see the room open up. Beautiful rock formations cover the walls.

But what you’ll also notice is reflective ducktape in reds and oranges encircling things trapped in the stone. As you get closer you’ll see calcified pots littering the ground. The tape is to indicate an artifact so you won’t step on it. For more important objects a slight rope or string will be placed around the object from a stick so you don’t get to close. It was incredible to see these things here after hiking in the darkness for so long. Some pots are still whole while others were purposefully broken with “kill holes” after the rituals. How even did the Mayans find this place? Your guide might also point out stingray spines used in bloodletting ceremonies. If you pay attention you’ll also see where the Mayans modified the cave to create alters or project shadows of faces. Among this area are some calcified bones that your guide will helpfully point out as you traverse this cavern.

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After you admire this it’s time to see the Maiden. You’ll have to climb up a 15 foot ladder (well it’s actually 2 ladders tapped together. Good luck!) to reach the chamber called the Stone Sepulcher where you’ll see the famed Crystal Maiden. Sadly, a tourist a few years ago damaged the skull, so there is netting around her so you cannot get close (or fall into) her. She is surreal, completely calcified and sparkles in the light.

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Beyond her use to be another section of the cave with another ladder to scale, but the entryway is too close to the Maiden so they have blocked this off. This cave is where you would have seen the ax used to kill the Maiden as well as the youngest sacrifice skeletons.

Once you are done viewing the Maiden (who might actually be a young teenage boy) you’ll then hike back the way you came, this time going a bit faster since you’ve already seen everything. After getting sufficiently wet again you’ll return for your provided lunch and a break. But the sun will seem too bright after spending 3 hours in the darkness, or maybe a bit of Xibalba has stuck with you.